To stay, fall in love, decide what my ultimate career would look like, tour an apartment and get a first hand arts education from some guy named Greg who I’m pretty sure adopted me? Because I’m feeling like day one is the perfect day for that.
Important context, I love a good fountain pen. If we have talked frequently during the quarantine, you probably know fountain pens replaced perfume shopping for me. I’ve collected five so far, which is the most restraint I could show. I guess six now, considering I found a fountain pen store today while on my 7 mile “walk until my feet hurt too bad to not be able to make it home” adventure, and it is glorious. It’s called Papier Plume, and they make their own ink and I am in love. In love with the store, in love with the paper, and definitely in love with the shopkeeper who I can say is now cast as the most interesting human I’ve ever encountered.
Does it count as getting lost if you’re doing it intentionally? I’m not sure if it does. I took whatever turn I felt like for hours, just trying to absorb as much as possible. People are still playing music in the streets, I can still drink cafe au lait’s, and it’s kind of nice not having drunk bachelorette parties throw up near my shoes. I was fully expecting today to just be an “absorbing” day. Window shopping, listening, and sitting any time I could find a park bench to tape record the music. And just when I decided it was time to turn around and start the walk back home (which is not on Frenchman, contrary to what I thought and have been telling people for the last month), something pulled me down one more left turn instead of going right like I was supposed to. And there it was, the most beautiful store I have ever seen.
Am I being dramatic? Yes. Too cheesy? Absolutely. But, it’s true. They had stationary imported from France, bottles and bottles of ink that they mix in special collections for limited release, Murano glass dipping pens, a woman positively FRETTING about the store making sure the colors were cohesive, the smell of linen and nothing but linen, all sorts of shining wax that the handsome shopkeeper gave me a discount on because I just walked up with handfuls. I honestly didn’t know what to do with myself. I wanted to move in, live under the table of ink pots and discount postcards. Tell my work I’m sorry but I actually am required to give this place 100% of my attention now, please tell our funders “yikes” from me. In case my point isn’t clear enough, I love it. I love being somewhere that just makes me feel like all of those strange longings and urges and things that make people roll their eyes at me ARE OKAY. There is an entire store dedicated to fountain pens. Do you know how many places I stopped at in California to ask if they carried fountain pens? Ask Jorden, she had to drive with me to them.
So to be in a place where I can stumble on a store that has been there for twenty years just…existing? In peace? I’m happy. Over the top, over the moon happy.
There’s a lot of other examples of this happening. I recorded a man playing one of my favorite songs on the saxophone today, there’s a perfumery that has been around since the 1843’s that makes custom blends (okay, maybe I’m not entirely over my perfume obsession), every balcony has plants dripping over the side, everyone has frizzy hair-not just me! It feels like this city is everything I love come to life.
Which is crazy, because it’s an actual whole city with a whole population of a whole group of humans who probably wouldn’t appreciate knowing I think their home is a fever dream of my wildest fantasies come true. But I’m starting to think this is what things feel like when you’re in the right place at the right time. That everything was made for you, that even if it’s been around for 200 years it’s fate that you met it right then and right there, that something as benign as a crack in the sidewalk can feel romantic.
I have grand plans to walk along the river this week. After that I want to find some swamps. And I can guarantee, I will think that bayou is just the greatest thing I’ve ever seen in my whole life. I tried being reserved with my excitement before I came out here. I didn’t let myself think too hard about anything in case something happened and I couldn’t come.
But I’m here. I made it. And I’m happy.

Oh, and I cut bangs.
